Student designers create Western-inspired looks to promote sustainable fashion

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Men in Western wear, circa 1880 to 1900. Photo courtesy of the Denver Public Library Digital Collection.
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DENVER — Western fashion is trending, as country music and Western aesthetics saturate popular culture. Even Beyoncé is wearing a cowboy hat and singing about denim.

But Western wear has graced magazines and runways for decades. Western fashion has been in the mainstream for the past 40 years, starting with the urban cowboy fad in the late 1970s, said Rockmount Ranch Wear president Steve Weil.

“Western wear is one of the longest running fashion directions in the world,” Weil said. “It means different things to many people. In my case, it's a lifestyle, not a costume.”

Located in downtown Denver, Rockmount Ranch Wear is a three-generation family business that has been selling and designing Western wear since the late 1940s.

Many of the iconic elements of Western wear were developed to be functional, not just fashionable. Leather — made from hide, a byproduct of the beef industry — is commonly used in Western staples such as cowboy hats, boots, chaps and saddles.

“Cow hides and buffalo hides have been used for time immemorial,” said Wiel. “They're very durable and they serve many purposes and they're a renewable resource.”

As common as leather is in Western wear, a lot of potential leather goes to waste. About 4.8 million hides rotted last year in U.S. landfills, said Jordan Kraft Lambert, director of Ag Innovation at CSU Spur.

Lambert is on a mission to promote underutilized byproducts of the beef industry, including organ meat, called offal, and leather. 

She partnered with the CSU Department of Design and Merchandising to assign a class of students to create looks inspired by leather pieces loaned by ranchers across Colorado.

Models will walk in these designs in a fashion show during the annual Offal Party at the National Western Stock Show Saturday, Jan. 25.
Cowboy boots were designed to be easy to slip into a stirrup, with a heel that keeps the foot from going through it. Chaps were meant to protect the wearer’s legs and pants from thorny bushes and trees. Modeled by Justin Goss. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Cowboy boots were designed to be easy to slip into a stirrup, with a heel that keeps the foot from going through it. Chaps were meant to protect the wearer’s legs and pants from thorny bushes and trees. Modeled by Justin Goss. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
A cowboy with Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show and the Sells Floto Circus photographed between 1910 and 1917. He wears cowboy boots and leather chaps with fringe. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
A cowboy with Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show and the Sells Floto Circus photographed between 1910 and 1917. He wears cowboy boots and leather chaps with fringe. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
Indigenous peoples used fringe to decorate their garments and keep hems from becoming unraveled.  Modeled by Kelly Larson. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Indigenous peoples used fringe to decorate their garments and keep hems from becoming unraveled. Modeled by Kelly Larson. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Juan Jose, a Native American man of the Pueblo tribe in New Mexico, photographed in 1898 in a buckskin skirt with fringe. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
Juan Jose, a Native American man of the Pueblo tribe in New Mexico, photographed in 1898 in a buckskin skirt with fringe. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
“All of their designs were Western-inspired,” said David Russon, a design and merchandising instructor at CSU. “Some of them look very Western, some of them might not look Western at all, but they were inspired specifically by the Western piece that they picked when [Lambert] came and visited us for the first time.”

Apparel design junior Colby Zur picked a saddle to inspire his design. He chose the saddle in the hopes that it would come with a horse, and it did. The model wearing his design will ride a horse during the fashion show.
Rockmount Ranch Wear developed the pearl snap shirt, which uses snaps rather than buttons down the front of the garment. Rockmount’s founder Jack A. Weil came up with the idea after seeing bull riders rip their shirts on the bull’s horns. If something snags on a shirt with snaps, it will come unsnapped rather than tear. Some of Rockmount Ranch Wear’s shirts will be included in the fashion show.  Designed by Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg Co. Modeled by Mackenzie Long and Justin Goss. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Rockmount Ranch Wear developed the pearl snap shirt, which uses snaps rather than buttons down the front of the garment. Rockmount’s founder Jack A. Weil came up with the idea after seeing bull riders rip their shirts on the bull’s horns. If something snags on a shirt with snaps, it will come unsnapped rather than tear. Some of Rockmount Ranch Wear’s shirts will be included in the fashion show. Designed by Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg Co. Modeled by Mackenzie Long and Justin Goss. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
The bolo tie design is often credited to Indigenous tribes in the West who clasped their bandanas with a shell or piece of silver. A New Mexico shop owner started selling bolo ties in the 1930s after seeing Navajo, Hopi and Zuni men wear the style.  Designed by Colby Zur and modeled by Ryan Crowell. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
The bolo tie design is often credited to Indigenous tribes in the West who clasped their bandanas with a shell or piece of silver. A New Mexico shop owner started selling bolo ties in the 1930s after seeing Navajo, Hopi and Zuni men wear the style. Designed by Colby Zur and modeled by Ryan Crowell. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Portrait of Shoshone Chief Washakie wearing a bandana in the bolo tie-style, circa 1900. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
Portrait of Shoshone Chief Washakie wearing a bandana in the bolo tie-style, circa 1900. Photo courtesy the Denver Public Library Digital Collection
CSU apparel design and production senior Ella McBride used the yarn from a thrifted wool sweater to create the cardigan, featuring Denver International Airport’s notorious Blucifer. She made the button down shirt from an old sheet.  “I really like the idea of taking something that would be thrown away and making it into something that somebody would actually wear,” McBride said.  Designed by Ella McBride and modeled by Elise Golyer. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
CSU apparel design and production senior Ella McBride used the yarn from a thrifted wool sweater to create the cardigan, featuring Denver International Airport’s notorious Blucifer. She made the button down shirt from an old sheet. “I really like the idea of taking something that would be thrown away and making it into something that somebody would actually wear,” McBride said. Designed by Ella McBride and modeled by Elise Golyer. Photo: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS
Zur designed a red leather skirt, which covers the riders’ legs like chaps, and a hooded poncho. He also created a lightweight shirt with a lace-up front, and a pair of wool pants with a suede gusset to make riding more comfortable.

“I've done a small amount of horse riding, just at my uncle's farm,” Zur said. “I wanted to make [the pants] more durable on the seat, where they're making contact and there's a lot of friction and motion.”
Colby Zur’s poncho and leather skirt will be worn by a model on a horse during the fashion show at the Offal Party. Modeled by April Kreye (and her horse, Ace.) Photos courtesy of Ella McBride.
Inspired by an intricate leather saddle, Colby Zur designed an outfit that would be suitable for horseback riding. Modeled by Dominic Foltin. Photos: Carly Rose, Rocky Mountain PBS.
Zur has family who work in the beef cattle industry in Wisconsin — he loves organ meat, especially liver — and he thought about their closets while designing his look. To him, Western wear is a combination of workwear and style.

“I think of something that's really tough and durable, but that has just any sort of slight flair to it,” Zur said. “A lot of friends that I have or family members that work in agriculture, they have all these really strong, tough clothes, but they still want to have a little bit of style so that they don't have to have outfits for going out into town and then outfits for working. They have a bit of both in one thing.”

Before this assignment, Zur hadn’t worked much with leather, but now that he’s had the experience, he wants to incorporate more of it into future designs. He enjoys working with natural materials, like wool, cotton, leather or fur, because they’re long-lasting but ultimately biodegradable, unlike synthetic fibers like polyester.

Last semester, before starting on their Western-inspired designs, Zur and his classmates worked on a “zero waste” assignment. Many of the students could fit the leftover materials from the project in the palm of their hand, Russon said.

The fashion industry takes a significant toll on the environment, which is why it’s important to teach the next generation of fashion designers to value sustainability, Russon said.

In addition to using donated leather throughout their pieces, many of the students used thrifted or upcycled materials to complete their designs.

“We're already one of the biggest waste producers on the entire planet,” Russon said. “If students are already thinking of ways now, ‘how can I be sustainable in my personal practices in creating,’ I can only hope that that will transfer when they go out into the industry, and they'll find ways to reduce their footprint on the planet.”
Type of story: News
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